ASK the WICKER EXPERT
Need answers to your questions about your prized family heirloom wicker furniture or antique wicker pieces you picked up at a flea market? From caring for antique wicker furniture to how-to paint wicker, how-to clean wicker, and even how-to remove mold and find a wicker expert.
Be sure to check out the Seatweaving FAQ page for care, hints and tips on caned chairs, rush seats, splint and many more woven seat designs and techniques. 
As mentioned in: Woman’s Day Specials Budget Decorating Ideas, #2, 2006 and Country Living Magazine August 2004. And the Minnesota Public TV program, Venture North in 1995 and 2007. Thank you!
Question: WHAT KINDS OF MATERIALS WERE USED IN MAKING ANTIQUE WICKER FURNITURE?
Answer: There are many, many types of materials used in the creation of wicker furniture, but the two main types of wicker materials are "reed" and "paper fibre." Stick or Pole Rattan, Oriental Seagrass and Bamboo were a few of the others. For a more throughout discussion on the materials used in wicker furniture manufacturing, click on the articles page.
Question: WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN "REAL" WICKER AND "PAPER" WICKER?
Answer: They’re both real wicker, but I think what you are referring to is the difference between reed wicker and paper fibre wicker.
Reed wicker can snap and break like a twig or stick and is a natural growing material, whereas paper fibre wicker is actually a man-made twisted paper product and can be unraveled.
Paper fibre (spelling denotes man-made material, not natural), wicker was invented in 1904, is the color of a brown paper bag and is the same material used in rush seat weaving. It’s twisted and looks somewhat like an old fashioned barber pole, peppermint stick or rope. The paper wicker left the manufacturer either dyed or stained with a clear coat finish, or painted. Read this article on paper fibre rush for more information.
Question: HOW DO YOU TELL THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WICKER AND CANE?
Answer: Generally speaking, there is no such material as "wicker". Instead, the word refers to the act of weaving chair seats and furniture, or it’s the final end-result product, such as a woven chair, couch, buggy or basket.So, wicker refers to the act of weaving or is the final woven article made using a variety of materials and is not a material itself.
The most popular materials used in construction of antique wicker furniture were rattan reed and paper fibre rush. Cane is the outer skin or bark of the rattan palm which has been processed into strips and is most often used in weaving seats and backs of wood frame furniture or wrapping joints in whole pole-rattan wicker furniture.
Although sometimes cane, rush or splint seat chairs are also referred as "wicker" pieces, they are more correctly referred to by the materials used in the woven seat and the design or pattern. Take a look at my Seat Weaving page for more thorough information and pictures of the various materials and patterns used in "seat weaving" and my Wicker Repair page for more information and pictures on antique woven "wicker" furniture. 
ANSWER: IS IT OK TO USE MY WICKER ON MY DECK?
Answer: Yes, it’s OK to use your wicker outside on your deck, but leaving it out there permanently, exposed to all the weather elements, is not a good idea at all.
Be sure to bring it in at night and store in a protected area. Although reed wicker and cane are natural materials that grow in the rain forest areas, they are dead after being harvested, so they can be easily damaged by rain, snow, sunshine, and wind.
The weather elements will eventually rot the fibers and will totally destroy them after a period of time. Also the hardwood frames might warp or rot, or the paint may get damaged and peel or flake off. And no amount of water proofing products will prevent this reaction.
In my opinion, you are wasting your money if you try to weather proof your wicker furniture with any of the products on the market right now, other than using Marine varnish and/or paint, which also have their limitations. It’s best not to subject wicker furniture to the weather elements in the first place!
Antique wicker furniture can never be replaced, and is not intended for outdoor use. So, take care of those valuable antiques and use teak, plastic, metal, or redwood furniture instead. Or if you really want the wicker look, be sure to buy all-weather wicker or resin wicker which are made to be used outdoors or buy cheap reproduction rattan wicker that’s easily replaced.
Question: CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT WHEN MY WICKER WAS MADE AND WHAT IT’S WORTH?
Answer: Whether you know it or not, what you are asking for is an appraisal, I am not certified to give appraisals and do not do so. When you ask someone to date your piece or tell you what it’s worth, they are establishing value that you can later use to either sell your piece, put in your will as an heirloom, recover any insurance money from damage claims, or perhaps just have for your own edification.
But for any of those reasons, you want the information you receive to be authentic, accurate and documented in case of a challenge. In other words, you want tangible proof as to your value. Anyone can pick a date out of the air and tell you what a piece is worth, but wouldn’t you rather have accurate information, documentation, and irrefutable proof as to the date of manufacture and the value?
I highly recommend Richard Saunders in Savannah, Georgia as a wicker appraiser. He has been a certified wicker furniture appraiser since 1983, and has written six books on the wicker furniture industry. He is also advertising his wicker restoration skills on my Furniture Repair Directory, so if you need wicker repair work done and are in the vicinity, be sure to contact him.
Keep in mind that appraisals are not done for free, because considerable time, money and effort when into securing the appraisal certification. Your appraiser most likely will do extensive research on your piece and will be able to tell you the approximate date the piece was made, the materials used in construction, possibly the manufacturer, and also give you a value based on the reason you requested the information/appraisal. Expect to pay at least $25 or more, up to a couple of hundred dollars per appraised item.
Here are some other websites that list contemporary prices on their wicker for sale, you can do your own comparison of your furniture, or get online appraisals. Check on Kovels.com CollectingChannel.com and Tias.com online appraisals. The only fairly current wicker furniture price guide out on the market now is "Wicker Furniture from 1890-1930" by Tim Scott
HOW TO CARE FOR AND CLEAN WICKER FURNITURE
Question: HOW DO I CARE FOR MY ANTIQUE WICKER FURNITURE?
Answer: Follow my "7 Handy Hints to Care for Your Wicker Furniture", tip sheet which spells out exactly what to do and not do, to preserve your fine antique wicker heirlooms and flea market finds. Also, read on for more great hints and tips, answers to some of the most frequently asked questions I receive.
Question: HOW DO YOU CLEAN RATTAN REED WICKER FURNITURE?
Answer: You can vacuum frequently to remove any surface dirt, dirt embedded in the weave, or pet hair. Use a damp, clean cloth to remove any stubborn dirt. Or if it’s really dirty and grimy, reed wicker can be successfully cleaned by taking the piece outside and using the water spray hose and light detergent in warm water. Just keep in mind, that any water used might seep under the paint and cause it to fail later on.
Question: HOW DO I CLEAN PAPER FIBRE WICKER?
Answer: First use the vacuum brush attachment to remove dust and surface dirt or use a new, clean paint brush to brush loose dirt embedded in the weave. Then use a damp wet cloth with a bit of light detergent added to the water to rub off any stubborn dirt or grime.
Do not take these pieces out for an annual water hose down, or take it to the carwash! You might end up with a real mess on your hands because this type of wicker is made out of twisted paper, and water may start to dissolve the material!
Question: HOW DO YOU REFRESH FADED, DRIED OUT WICKER?
Answer: Well, it’s possible that your unpainted but stained and varnished piece has faded and the top coat of varnish or lacquer has come off, too because it was sitting in the sun for an extended period of time. Be sure to do a test area first, in an inconspicuous spot, making sure all products and methods are compatible, acceptable and correct.
To freshen faded rattan reed (original finish, stained, but not painted) wicker: Apply a mixture of 1/3 turpentine to 2/3 boiled linseed oil (purchase this from the store, DO NOT boil linseed oil yourself, it’s highly flammable) to the entire area. Use a brush to apply the mixture to get into all the crevices, then let dry for several days, blotting up any remaining oil that raises to the surface with a lint-free cloth or paper towels.
Reapply an oil-base stain color to match the existing, and as a final step you can apply two light coats of varnish, lacquer or shellac. Make sure the final finish coat is oil-base, because linseed oil is an oil-base product and is not compatible with water-base products. Make sure you let each coat dry completely before beginning with the next, and don’t let anyone sit on the furniture until it has dried for several days to a week.
Question: HOW DO YOU REMOVE MOLD AND MILDEW FROM WICKER FURNITURE?
Answer: Mold and mildew on wicker furniture and cane seats can present quite a problem and removal is not always easy, or permanent. First of all, try to avoid this situation by maintaining an even humidity level in the room where the furniture is used and or stored. If you have high humidity, consider using a dehumidifier to protect your furniture and maintain your own comfort level. Storing cane or wicker furniture in a damp or high humidity basement or outside on a porch is just asking for trouble.
Removing mold and mildew from cane seat chairs is easier than removing it from totally woven wicker furniture. And if your furniture is painted, then be extra careful when using this removal technique, because it might damage the finish, lifting the paint.
If you have rattan reed wicker not paper fibre, take your piece outside on a warm, sunny, and windy day to clean using a soft scrub brush and a strong solution of bleach in soapy water. Or you can use a bit of ammonia in water–but don’t mix bleach with ammonia, it can be deadly! After the piece is cleaned, rinse well with water and leave out in the shade to dry thoroughly. When the reed wicker dries, it will shrink up a bit and be more firm and sturdy. Don’t allow anyone to sit on the furniture until it has dried for several days, otherwise the reed wicker strands will stretch out of shape.
If after this treatment, you still see little black specks of mold, you might try applying full-strength bleach to each spot, using a small artists paintbrush or a Q-tip. Here again, be sure to rinse and dry well. Sometimes, the black mold spots cannot be removed no matter what you do, but will not be visible on the bottom side of the seat, anyway.
Question: HOW DO YOU REMOVE CAT URINE ODOR IN USED WICKER?
Answer: First of all, you need to determine whether the pieces are made of paper fibre wicker or rattan reed (check the explanations of the various materials here on this page and on the articles page).There’s not really a perfect solution to this problem, so you might need to return it to the previous owner and ask for your money back.
About the only solution I have is to either paint the wicker set completely, first using a wood primer like Kilz, which prevents "bleed through" of dark paints and some odors. Go over the whole piece with the primer then give it 2 light final finish coats of oil-base paint. Or you could try going over the whole set with a clear coat of shellac to cover and mask the odor.
If your wicker is made of rattan reed and not paper fibre, another treatment you might try would be to wash it using a solution of water with baking soda added to neutralize the odor. Then let the pieces dry completely before sitting on them. Or better yet, check with to see if there are professional cleaners that treat furniture for smoke damage. They might be able to put the furniture in their carbon (??) chambers to extract the offending smell.
PAINTING WICKER FURNITURE
Question: HOW DO I REMOVE FLAKING PAINT TO PREPARE FOR PAINTING ?
Answer: Get a soft brass or wire brush and scrape off as much as you can. If it’s flaking badly, I have also found success using the side of a flat-head screwdriver blade or a house paint scraper tool. Sometimes, if you are sure you are dealing with a rattan reed wicker piece, the flaking paint can usually be removed at a high-pressure car wash where you spray the piece yourself. Keep in mind that it’s easy to damage the rattan reed with the extremely high pressure.
Then after removing all the paint, lightly sand the rough edges to blend. Be sure to apply at least two coats of oil-base wood primer (using a natural bristle brush or compressor sprayer) to the bare spots, or the final paint coat will absorb like crazy. After the primer dries, apply two light coats of oil-based paint, using either a compressor sprayer or brush to apply. My preference is to use an indoor/outdoor oil-base semi-gloss house paint.
Question: WHAT TYPE OF PAINT DO I USED TO PAINT MY WICKER?
Answer: I recommend using an oil-base indoor/outdoor house paint. It remains flexible, adheres to the wicker readily, and is extremely durable. I have seen far too many wicker pieces painted with Latex, that begin to flake off only after a few years of application. However, there are many wicker experts now, that swear by the good results they are experiencing with the new Latex products. Consult a paint expert at a reputable paint store before purchasing your supplies.
Question: HOW DO YOU PAINT WICKER FURNITURE?
Answer: The best way in my opinion, is to use a compressor sprayer, using oil-base house paint. If this is not possible, and you only have one piece to do, I recommend using a natural bristle brush to apply the paint, or as a last resort, you can use the spray can method.
Buy the best quality spray paint available and make sure it’s compatible with the existing paint already on the piece, and use a wood primer touching up any bare areas before painting. When you use spray cans, quite a bit of paint is lost in over-spray and can end up being quite expensive in the long run.Setting up a spray booth with appliance cardboard boxes helps somewhat if your piece is on the smaller side, whether you use the spray cans or a compressor sprayer.
Be sure to turn the chair upside down and paint all visible areas here first, then tip upright and apply paint to all visible areas, getting into the crevices and corners. Give at least two light coats of paint and be sure to clean up any spills and drips immediately and don’t "glob" on the paint with thick coats.
LOCATE CHAIR CANING & WICKER REPAIR EXPERTS
Question: WHO DOES CHAIR CANING AND WICKER REPAIR FOR HIRE?
Answer: Locate an expert near you to repair your wicker furniture or recane your cane chair, by searching the FURNITURE REPAIR DIRECTORY on WickerWoman.com, which lists experts from across the country in the specific areas of their expertise.
- Wicker Furniture Restoration
- Seatweaving (Caning, Rush, Splint) Repair
- Furniture Stripping, Repair & Restoration
Upholstery Repair
And if you have a restoration business and want online advertising through WickerWoman.com, go to the Advertise With Us! page and complete the form. Pay for your ad using the handy PayPal button or mail a check to me.
Question: HOW DO YOU FIND SOMEONE TO DO CHAIR CANING AND WICKER REPAIR OFFLINE?
Answer: You can look in the Yellow Pages of your phone book under Caning, Chair Caning, Wicker, Wicker Repair, Seat Weaving, Furniture Stripping, or Furniture Repair.
And check in the many wicker furniture books on the market, usually they list wicker and cane experts in the back of the books, listed by state and specialty. Richard Saunders wrote at least five books, all with experts and suppliers listed in each book. Use the Alibris Book Affiliate at the top right-hand navigation bar to purchase your books and help support WickerWoman.com!
Ralph & Terry Kovel have written three restoration specialists books for antiques and collectibles.The Wicker Woman business is listed in all three of the Kovel’s books, (the first was under a different name and published in 1995); the most recent edition is called Kovel’s Yellow Pages published in 2003.
If you can’t find experts to repair your furniture the old-fashioned way, then canvas your local antique store owners, furniture strippers, upholstery shops, woodworking shops, cabinet shops, carpenters and your friends or coworkers. Many times caners and wicker repair experts don’t advertise but instead use word of mouth.
You’ll find that most of the antique dealers and furniture strippers know of someone that does quality work, but whether they will share that information with you is another story. There are a lot of online resources for you to check out too. Begin with the various search engines, and with sites that specialize in antiques, such as the sites listed here:
- Wicker Woman’s Furniture Repair and Restoration Directory
- Antique Restorers
- MaloneysOnline Antiques & Collectibles Resource Directory
- Ralph & Terry Kovel, HGTV’s Flea Markets with the Kovels
Question: WHERE CAN I BUY SUPPLIES, INSTRUCTION BOOKS AND TOOLS TO MAKE REPAIRS MYSELF?
Answer: I’m not in the business of selling cane and basket materials by mail order or over the Internet, and only sell supplies through classes I teach. So, I’ve set up a Cane & Basket Weaving Supplies referral page where you will find over 40 mail order cane and basket supply companies. You can place your order for caning supplies, basketweaving materials, tools and instruction books online or via telephone. When you place your order, be sure to mention you found their ad on the Cane & Basket Supplies page of WickerWoman.com!
Question: HOW DO I GET IN THE CHAIR CANING AND WICKER REPAIR BUSINESS?
Answer: If you are already a basketmaker, the transition from basketweaving to wicker restoration is a natural, because the same type of weaving techniques are used in both products. Even if you have no prior weaving experience it is possible to teach yourself, but I would recommend getting some competent instruction from a teacher if possible.
Your best bet would be to try and find a wicker restoration class you could take, or perhaps apprentice with a specialist or at least take private lessons in seatweaving or wicker repair. Also check with your local community education, college level courses, arts & crafts schools, basketry guilds and conventions and ask at woodworking schools and technical schools. You never know who might be offering chair caning or wicker repair classes! Take a look at PictureTrail.com/wickerwoman to see some of my wicker repair class students at the John C. Campbell Folk School in Brasstown, NC and also the Chair Caning Classes album.
Be sure to check out all of the small business and home-based business advice from Barbara Brabec and others for a ton of useful information on beginning your craft business. Then too, you can join us anytime on the new Seatweaving and Wicker Repair Discussion Board Forum for help with questions of any kind or just plain chatting with like-minded weavers!
